I read cookbooks to relax.  There is no better way for me to unwind than to read a recipe, imagine the finished dish, and consider when I might possibly try my hand at making it.  I go in phases — I rotate between 2-4 cookbooks within a theme for a month or two, then move onto another set of books on a different topic.  For a while I might read about sausage/charcuterie/meat, then move onto indian cooking for a month, then start on simple vegetable preparations for a bit, then head towards bbq for a while, which might then bring me back to sausages and meats.

As of late, my interest has been french cooking.  Old style french cooking, more accurately.  It started after Steven and I went to southern france for a week in late May.  Since then I have been cycling through Elizabeth David’s French Provincial Cooking, Richard Olney’s Simple French Food and The French Menu Cookbook, and Jane Grigson’s Charcuterie and French Pork Cookery, all of which were originally published more than 35 years ago (1960, 1974, 1970, and 1964 respectively).  Simple French Food is emerging as my favorite due to the multitude of not-too-difficult, yet elegant vegetable preparations; with its charcuterie and sausage themes, Charcuterie and French Pork Cookery is coming in a close second.

This delicious chicken preparation, however, is not from any of these four books.  Instead, it is based on a recipe in Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking (which I do not own yet… I am waiting to get back to SF and buy it from Omnivore Books).  It’s a lovely preparation, and not too difficult at all.  The sauce couldn’t be simpler, and the only chopping involved is cutting up 2 T. of fresh basil.  The result is a moist, flavorful dish with a rich eggy sauce that looks beautiful on the plate.  I served it alongside a zucchini and chard gratin (recipe coming soon), a simple green salad, a warm sesame-topped roll, and a glass of not-too-sweet Hungarian Riesling that we picked up on a recent trip to Budapest.  A feast!

Do you have any favorite french cookbooks? old, modern, or otherwise?

Poulet Sauté Aux Herbes de Provence
adapted from Julia Child’s recipe at Epicurious

Chicken:
1/2 c. butter (or goose fat, if you have it)
1 3 – 3 1/2 lb chicken, cut into 8 pieces (or an assortment of chicken pieces, all legs etc)
1 t. dried thyme
1 t. dried basil
1/4 t. fennel seeds, ground in a spice grinder
3 unpeeled garlic cloves
1/2 c. dry white vermouth ( or 2/3 c. dry white wine)

Sauce:
2 large egg yolks
1 T. lemon juice
1 T. vermouth or dry white wine
2 T. chopped fresh basil

Chicken:
Melt butter in a large wide pot over medium high heat.  Working in batches, if necessary, add chicken pieces and cook until golden, turning occasionally, about 8 minutes per batch.  Once all chicken has been sauteed, transfer chicken breast pieces to a plate, and return all other pieces to the pot.  Sprinkle about 2/3 to 3/4 of the thyme, basil, and fennel over the chicken in the pot, and the remaining spices over the breast pieces.  Season all pieces with salt and pepper.  Add garlic to the pot.  Cover pot, reduce heat to medium, and cook 8 to 9 minutes.  Return breast pieces to pot, then baste chicken with butter in pot.  Cover and cook until chicken is cooked through, turning and basting occasionally, about 15 minutes.  Transfer chicken to a platter, and cover.

Remove peel from garlic, then mash the cloves in the pot.  Add vermouth or wine, then boil until reduced to about 3/4 c., occasionally scraping the bottom of the pan.  Pour the pan juices into a measuring cup and reserve for sauce.

Sauce:
Off heat, whisk egg yolks in heavy small saucepan until beginning to thicken.  Whisk in lemon juice and vermouth or wine.  Gradually whisk reserved pan juices into eggs, a small bit at a time.  Set sauce over a very low heat and whisk constantly until warm and slightly thickened, 3 to 4 minutes.  Remove from heat, stir in basil, and season with salt and pepper.  Spoon chicken over sauce and serve.  Enjoy!

Auflauf, gratin, casserole…?  Because I am 1) living in Germany, 2) obsessed with french cookbooks, and 3) decidedly American at heart, I sometimes just don’t know what to call the things I make for dinner.  Gratin?  no… this isn’t elegant enough to be called a gratin.  Casserole?  no… this conjures images of canned tuna and cream of mushroom soup.  Auflauf?  what in the world is auflauf?? (answer: it’s the German word for casserole).  OK then, we’ll go with “auflauf”.  Besides, assonant words tickle my fancy… pow-wow, humdrum, teeny-weeny, sci-fi, potpourri, soporific… let’s add “auflauf” to the list.

Whatever one decides to call it, this is an incredibly simple dish to prepare. The only prep work is to seed and chop the tomatoes, chop an onion, sliver some basil, and mix the cheeses together.  There is no precooking (no sweating onions, blanching tomatoes, etc), so the dish comes together in about 10 minutes.

The end product has a fairly loose consistency, and spreads a little on the plate.  Creamy, fresh, and just a little spicy, the auflauf is delicious eaten on its own  or scooped onto warm bread.  And although I haven’t tried it, I imagine it would also be tasty spooned over pasta or polenta, or perhaps mixed with cooked whole grains for a summer grain salad (I am imagining a mixture of barley, farro, wheat berries, etc).  Or of course, you can follow the original idea from Simply Recipes and make it into a pie.

Long live auflauf! :)

Tomato and Cheese Auflauf
Adapted from Tomato Pie at Simply Recipes
serves 3-4, depending on accompaniments

~1 1/4 lbs ripe tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 medium red onion, chopped
1/4 c. basil, slivered
Salt and Pepper
2 c. grated mixed cheese (suggestion: 2/3 c. mozzarella, 2/3 c. cheddar, 2/3 c. gouda)
3/4 c. mayonnaise
1/2 T. Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly oil a medium sized casserole dish.

Spread chopped tomatoes over the bottom of the casserole, then sprinkle evenly with the red onion and basil.  Season liberally with pepper, and lightly with salt.

Mix the cheese, mayonnaise, and hot pepper sauce in a bowl, then evenly spread over the top of the tomatoes.  Bake until bubbly and golden brown, about 45 minutes.  Enjoy!

Summer Squash and Roasted Tomato Timbales
makes 2 timbales

- 3 fist sized round green summer squash, or an equal amount of small zucchini or other summer squash
- olive oil
- between 4 and 12 roasted tomato halves, depending on size (see recipe below)
- 8 or so large basil leaves
- 3 – 4 T. farmer’s cheese or good quality ricotta

Preheat broiler. Remove the tops and very bottoms of summer squash and slice into thin rounds, about 1/8 inch thick or less (if using long instead of round squash, slice vertically into long strips). Lightly brush a rimmed baking sheet with olive oil. Place slices on baking sheet, and brush the tops with a small amount of olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil for about 5-6 minutes, until top is beginning to turn golden brown. Flip slices over, and broil and additional 4-5 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool somewhat. Turn oven to 400 degrees.

Lightly brush 2 -1 cup ramekins with a small amount of olive oil. Place one squash piece flat in the bottom of each ramekin. Using about half of the roasted squash, line the sides of the ramekins with overlapping slices. Place a quarter of the tomatoes in the bottom of each ramekin. Pat a quarter of the cheese into each ramekin on top of the tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top cheese with two basil leaves, pressing gently. Place one or two roasted squash slices on top of the basil. Repeat layering: tomatoes, cheese, salt & pepper, and basil. Top with remaining squash slices, and fold over any edges so you have a little roasted-squash-sealed package. Place ramekins on baking sheet, and heat in oven for about 8-10 minutes, until warmed throughout. Remove ramekins from oven, gently loosen edges with a small spatula or knife, turn timbales out onto a plate and remove ramekins (either by placing a plate on top of ramekin and flipping over, or by deftly flipping hot ramekins face down onto a plate). Enjoy!

Roasted Tomatoes
- Small tomatoes (1.5 inches is ideal, though you can use larger or smaller tomatoes)
- Salt & Pepper
- Thyme (fresh or dried)

Preheat oven to very low, about 225 degrees. Slice tomatoes in half vertically (or if using larger tomatoes, quarter them) and place cut side up on a rimmed baking pan. Sprinkle each tomato half with salt, pepper, and a bit of thyme. Roast for about 1.5 hour, or until tomatoes are very soft. Flip tomatoes so the cut side is down. Roast an additional hour and a half, or longer until tomatoes have reduced in volume by about half. Use tomatoes immediately, or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week (though mine never last that long!). If the tomatoes are on the smaller side, you will need to reduce roasting time to about 1 hour per side.

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Last weekend I saw the first tomatoes of the season at the Palo Alto farmer’s market! Greenhouse-raised? perhaps. Unusual variety? not so much. Super delicious after over six months without eating a fresh tomato? absolutely.

Not only did I find the first tomatoes of the season, but I found some lovely green summer squash, which I haven’t seen in even longer than six months! These two exciting farmer’s market finds, plus some farmers cheese I had at home and fresh basil from my trusty indoor basil plant, combined wonderfully to make a gastronomically and aesthetically pleasing vegetable dish that is happily at home on the center of the plate.

I had never heard of the word timbale before I came across Patricia Wells great cookbook, ‘Vegetable Harvest: Vegetables at the Center of the Plate’. Similar to ‘tagine’ and ‘casserole’, the word timbale refers to both the cookware, as well as the food cooked in the cookware. In the book she has a delicious-looking recipe for roasted eggplant and tomato timbales, which I based this dish upon.

Not too difficult, and not too fussy, these vegetable timbales have a clean, fresh flavor and an almost melt-in-your-mouth texture. I can imagine a late summer version of the dish using entirely raw ingredients and served slightly chilled (tomatoes, dill, cucumbers, and feta; chioggia beets, mint, ricotta, and strawberries; zucchini, sweet corn, cilantro, and farmer’s cheese… to name a few). Geez, I see the first tomatoes, and I’m already imagining August! Silly me — how foolish it would be to miss out on other equally mouthwatering late-spring/early summer combinations: asparagus, new potatoes, and dill; spring onion, green garlic, and spinach; leek, potato, and sage; snap peas, basil, and broccoli — all with cheese, or course — use your imagination and the possibilities are endless!

That being said, do you have any ideas for tasty or unusual combinations? I’d love to hear them!

Springtime Vegetable Tart with Peas, Asparagus, and Basil

1 frozen all-natural Puff Pastry shell (I used a single 14 oz sheet from Dufour Pastry Kitchen ; alternatively you could use half a 17 oz package, just rolled more thinly)
1 cup fresh peas, shelled (or more if you have lots of peas on hand)
Olive Oil
~8 medium asparagus spears, cut in half vertically and sliced diagonally into 2 inch pieces
2 green onions, thinly sliced (including dark green parts)
~1 cup good quality ricotta or fromage blanc
1/2 c. crumbled feta or grated hard salty cheese (i.e. parmesan, gruyere, or manchego)
2 T crumbled bacon (optional)
1/2 c. fresh basil, slivered or chopped
Salt & Pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Thaw puff pastry shell according to package directions. Roll out to approximately 12 x 14 inches. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and place crust on prepared pan, turning up the outer edges to form a crust. The crust might hang over the edges — this is ok. Poke a few holes in the pastry shell with a knife or fork. Bake for 12 minutes, remove from oven, and let cool for 10-15 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat about 1 cup of water in a small skillet and cover. When water is boiling, add peas and boil for about 5-7 minutes or until no longer mealy tasting. Drain and reserve. Reheat skillet and add about 1T olive oil. Add green onions and asparagus and saute for 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat and add peas and salt and pepper to taste.

When puff pastry shell has cooled, gently spread ricotta evenly over shell. Top with pea and asparagus mixture. Sprinkle with feta and bacon (if using). Bake tart for 20 minutes, until crust is nicely golden brown. Remove from oven, sprinkle with fresh basil, and serve. Enjoy!

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Today’s recipe is a fantastic manifestation of the idea, ‘what grows together, goes together’. In these early days of spring, ‘bright green’ seems to be the theme — bright green shelling peas are exploding in my garden, bright green asparagus spears are widely available at the farmer’s market, and my bright green basil plant that dutifully weathered the winter is starting to perk up and produce more and more leaves. What better way to celebrate these early days of spring than a delicious and simple springtime tart?

Until recently, I had always avoided frozen pastry products due to their high concentration of un-pronounable, artificial ingredients. However, my local natural foods store recently started carrying high quality frozen puff pasty shells made by Dufour Pastry Kitchen in NYC with an incredibly short ingredient list — butter, flour, water, salt, & lemon juice — no un-pronouncables in a frozen product?! I approve! Anyways, these pastry shells are delicious, and just beg to be made into simple savory tarts. With minimal effort, one can create an elegant, healthful, seasonal dinner with only a few minutes of effort.

Tarts are highly adaptable and are a great canvas for experimentation (much like gratins). They adapt well to the different seasons and basically taste good as long as you use good ingredients. Besides the above combination of peas, asparagus, and basil, some other springtime combinations you might try are:

- peas, mint, and lemon zest
- broccoli, red onion, feta, and black pepper
- asparagus, scallions, and chives
- roasted squash cubes, shallots, and rosemary or sage (fall too)
- sauteed cooking greens (dandelion, collards, kale, turnip greens, etc), slivered almonds, diced ham, and diced canned tomatoes (or fresh if they’re in season in your area)
- sliced cooked potatoes, caramelized onions, pine nuts, and sage

Come summer, tarts with fresh tomatoes, red onions, and cured black olives are an all-time favorite around here.

If you have other ideas for tart toppings, I’d love to hear them!

Besides being easy, tarts are a dinner favorite because they are light but filling — tonight I served this alongside a hearty slice of leftover skillet roasted celeraic with potatoes, fresh celery, and olives (recipe to follow soon), and a glass of dry white wine for a light springtime dinner. Delicious!

Simple Basil Buttermilk Salad Dressing

1/2 c. chilled buttermilk
1/2 c. organic / all natural mayonnaise
1 large packed handful of fresh basil leaves
large pinch of sea salt

Combine all ingredients using a regular or hand blender. Alternatively, chop basil finely and combine ingredients by hand. Season to taste with sea salt and black pepper.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups. Keeps refrigerated for a week (at least).
Ideas for use: dress a green salad, drizzle over cubed pan-roasted tofu, toss with boiled chunks of fingerling potatoes and chopped green onions

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My thumb is ever-so-slightly more green today! Why? Because I just harvested the first lettuce plants from my winter garden! I started a mixture of heirloom red and green lettuce seeds in containers way back in November, transplanted the seedlings in December, and have been watching them grow ever since. During these short winter days, everything grows ….very….. slowly, but it does grow nonetheless. I’ve been waiting, not quite sure when I was supposed to harvest, but when I went to check on the garden a couple days ago, I finally knew that the time had come! (can you tell I’m excited?)

I am using the ‘cut and come again’ method for growing and harvesting my lettuce plants. With the ‘cut and come again’ method, the young leaves from a single head of lettuce are harvested up to three times during its growing season. You simply wait until the head of lettuce is a decent size (somewhere between a softball and a soccer ball), then cut the entire head approximately 1-2 inches from the base. New leaves will then grow to replace those you just harvested. Besides having a steady supply of young greens, this method allows a gardener to plant seedlings much closer together than a traditional garden–planting on as little as a 4 inch diamond provides the lettuce plants with enough space to thrive.

Also in the garden I’ve got lacinto kale, broccoli, collard greens, spinach, and peas. So far, only the lettuce is mature enough to harvest. I think the kale is next, then probably the peas and broccoli. The collards and spinach haven’t grown too much since I transplanted them as seedlings, which makes me think that those might be a bust, but hey, four out of six ain’t bad…

I decided to plant lettuce because I love salads, and because lettuce is one of the easiest, quickest plants to grow (it needs only about three inches of soil, and can be grown in mobile ‘salad tables’ or even in old dresser drawers with some holes drilled in the bottom). Until now, salad dressings for me were either a simple homemade vinaigrette, or came from the grocery store. I like creamy dressings a lot, but had never tried my hand at making them. A simple base mixture of buttermilk and good-quality all-natural mayonnaise is a great canvas for experimentation. Here I added a large handful of fresh basil since my indoor plant was sagging under the weight of its own leaves. Some other ideas are:

-dill and green onion
-cucumber (and dill — optional)
-parsley and moroccan preserved lemon
-apricot and poppy seeds
-cilantro
-granulated onion and garlic
-chopped chipotle pepper with a little adobo sauce

… just use your imagination!