There is a serious lack of Mexican food here in Hannover, Germany.  Not just good Mexican food (like the lack of good sushi), but simply a lack of Mexican food in general.  After 10 months of being gone from the Bay Area (where Mexican food is plentiful and delicious), at this point I would settle for some average or ho-hum Mexican food.  Or even Tex-Mex.  I miss it that much.  Alas, the closest thing is Dolores Mission Style Burritos in Berlin, which though tasty, is a very far cry from authentic mexican food.

One of the cookbooks I lugged over here with me is Dianne Kennedy’s The Essential Cuisines of Mexico.  At 526 pages, it is immense.  I don’t make things out of it all that often, since the recipes usually have a long list of ingredients, many of which I can’t find here, and typically take a full afternoon of toasting, soaking, grinding, pureeing, frying etc.  But when I do decide to crack open this cookbook, I am never disappointed.  The recipes tend to have deep, complex flavors, and strike a balance between homey comfort food and gourmet cuisine.  This lazy weekend I decided on a version of her Legumbres en Pipian Oaxaqueño, Vegetables in Oaxacan Pumpkin Seed Sauce.  The original recipe calls for nopales and peas, which I am sure would be delicious, but I think that any combination of sturdy vegetables would work just fine.

This particular recipe isn’t actually all that time consuming or difficult, and the results are fantastic.  The pumpkin seeds lend a unique, nutty, earthy, and almost sweet flavor to the sauce, and the dried chiles plus the chili powder give it a bit of a kick.  It makes a large batch, and the sauce continues to develop in flavor as it sits.

Look for the dried chiles at your local hispanic market, or if that fails, try Whole Foods or your regular grocery store.  The hispanic market will probably be about 20-30% of the cost of Whole Foods, so I recommend checking there first.  I picked mine up on a recent trip to the USA (chiles like ancho, mulato, guajillo etc. are pretty much impossible to find here) — my friend Laurie drove with me all over downtown Washington DC looking for a good hispanic market where I could buy an assortment of dried chiles, chipotles in adobo, and a couple other “staples”.  I was a little worried that going through customs in Frankfurt that I might get stopped for the sheer quantity of dried chiles and chile products in my suitcase.  Ah, what one must do to cook in a foreign country… Did I mention I am coming back to San Francisco for good in 3 1/2 weeks?!

Oaxacan Pipian served over mixed grains

Oaxacan Pipian with Zucchini and Onions
Adapted from The Essential Cuisines of Mexico

8 oz. green pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1 large ancho chile (dried), stem, seeds, and veins removed
2 guajillo chiles (dried), stem and seeds removed
4 c. cold water
4 garlic cloves
1/2 t. cumin seeds
3 T. vegetable oil
1-2 t. salt
a large pinch of oregano (mexican if possible)
1/2 – 1 t. chipotle chili powder, to taste (or substitute regular chili powder)

2 T. butter
3 medium zucchini, cut into large (1-2 inch) chunks
3 medium onions, cut into thick rings, then cut in half
1/2 – 3/4 lb. cooked turkey or chicken in bite size pieces (optional)

Toast the pumpkin seeds in a large dry skillet over medium high heat until they puff, about 5-7 minutes.  Set aside to cool.

Cover the chiles with the 4 c. water in a saucepan, and bring to a boil.  Simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from heat, cover, and let stand for an additional 5-10 minutes.  Place chiles in a blender along with garlic and 1 c. of the chile soaking water.  Puree until you have a smooth paste.

In batches, grind the pumpkin seeds along with the cumin in a clean spice/coffee grinder until they are a fine powder, but with a little bit of texture remaining.  Place into a medium sized bowl, and add the remaining 3 c. of chile soaking liquid.  Mix until smooth.

Heat vegetable oil in a large chef’s pan or sauce pan over medium high heat, and add the chile puree.  Fry for about 3 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan often to prevent sticking and scorching.  Add the pumpkin seed/water mixture and stir until well blended.  Add salt, oregano, and chili powder.  Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook for about 20 minutes until thickened.  Stir occasionally and scrape the bottom of the pan to prevent scorching.

Meanwhile, heat butter in a frying pan over medium high heat.  Place zucchini chunks in the butter with the largest cut side facing down.  Fry, undisturbed, for about 3-4 minutes until the zucchini has a golden crust.  Remove from pan and set aside.  Add onions to pan, and saute until just softened, about 3-4 minutes.

Once sauce has thickened, add zucchini, onions, and cooked turkey or chicken (if using), and stir until evenly distributed.  Cover and simmer for about 15 minutes.  Serve over rice or with corn tortillas.  Enjoy!

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Crustless Quiche with Tomatoes, Zucchini, and Salami
Adapted from Tartine

~1/3 c. sun-dried tomatoes (dry packed)
~1/3 -1/2 c. salami, chopped
1/2 of a zucchini, cut into small uniform pieces

5 large eggs
3 T. flour
1 c. creme fraiche
1 c. whole milk
1 t. salt
1/2 t. black pepper
1 T. fresh parsley, chopped

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Lightly grease a 9 inch pie plate.

Heat 1-2 c. water until boiling.  Place the sun-dried tomatoes in a medium bowl and pour the boiling water over them.  Re-hydrate the tomatoes for 15 minutes, then drain and finely chop.  Set aside.

Meanwhile, heat a small frying pan over medium heat.  Lightly saute the salami until some fat is rendered and the edges start to crisp.  Press the salami to one side of the pan so some of the fat drains off.  Remove the salami from the pan and set aside, but leave the fat.  Reheat the pan, then saute the zucchini pieces in the rendered fat (if there isn’t much fat, add a little bit of butter or olive oil).  Saute the zucchini for about 5-7 minutes until the edges start to turn brown.  Add the zucchini to the salami and set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk one egg and the 3 T. of flour until smooth.  Add the remaining four eggs, and whisk until smooth.

In a large bowl, whisk the creme fraiche until smooth.  Add the milk and whisk again.  Add the egg mixture, then the salt, pepper, parsley, sun-dried tomatoes, salami, and zucchini.  Mix well.  Pour into the prepared pie plate, and place in the middle of the oven.  Bake for 10 minutes, then turn the heat down to 325 and bake for an additional 35-40 minutes, until the center of the quiche is slightly firm to the touch.  Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes before slicing.  Enjoy!

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I had a quiche epiphany the first time I tasted the quiche from Tartine Bakery in San Francisco.  The texture was amazing — light, fluffy, and almost custard-like.  It was a far cry from the dense, slightly dry, slightly rubbery texture that my mind conjured when I heard the word quiche.

Though I sadly live thousands of miles from oh-so-delicious Tartine Bakery nowadays, the Tartine cookbook has a recipe for basic quiche that is just as good as the quiche they sell in the shop.  The key ingredients for the fluffy texture are copious amounts of creme fraiche and whole milk, along with a little bit of flour.

If you’re appalled that the recipe calls for 1 cup of creme fraiche AND 1 cup of whole milk, then, well, that’s unfortunate because you’ll be missing out on perhaps the most amazingly textured quiche in existence.  I fall pretty squarely into the camp that ‘fat doesn’t make you fat, sugar and excess carbohydates do’, so you’ll get no apology from me for the fat content of this quiche.

As for filling, let your taste and imagination be your guide.  The past few quiches I have made have used sun-dried tomatoes and brianza salami that I picked up on a recent trip to Lake Como, Italy.  Chopped cooked asparagus or spinach would also be delicious, along with numerous other vegetable and herb combinations.  I have heard that at Tartine they even make a nettle quiche during the spring!

And though this quiche is crustless, I am quite sure that it would be delicious with a crust as well.  If you decide to go that route, use your favorite crust recipe, and fully bake it before adding the filling.  Then, bake the quiche as directed above.

I’ve been in the routine of making a quiche on sunday, which I then eat for breakfast during the week.  When I get up, I place a slice in a low oven to reheat it, and by the time I am out of the shower and dressed, the quiche is thoroughly heated and ready to be eaten.  Delicious and filling!

Still Hungry?  Try one of these:

- Flammkuchen (Onion, Bacon, and Creme Fraiche Tart)

- Chocolate Flecked Meringues (aka Rochers)

The annual zucchini proliferation is upon us!  Last week alone I was given six large zucchini, which were in addition to the four I had bought at the farmer’s market the weekend before.  Whew!   Though we had zucchini and summer squash .. um .. the phrase ‘coming out our ears’ comes to mind, none went to waste.

After making stuffed zucchini, sauteed zucchini with tarragon, zucchini jalapeno pasta, zucchini puree, and savory zucchini and tomato bread, I decided a sweet preparation would be a good way to round out the endeavor.  Hence came Oatmeal Summer Squash Muffins — a wonderfully moist muffin, lightly sweetened with honey, and seasoned with cinnamon and mace.  Delicious!!

This muffin recipe is adapted from one of my favorite, most-used cookbooks, Simply in Season.  The book is arranged by — you guessed it — season, and further by seasonal ingredient.  I love this because it lends itself so well to shopping at the farmer’s market.  The recipes feature one or two fresh vegetables or fruits; the other ingredients are typically ‘whole’, widely available, and suitable even for a tight budget.  The preparations are simple, fairly quick, and many substitutions are offered to suit what is already in your kitchen.  To me, it feels like a frugal how-to guide on cooking all the things your mother or your grandmother or great-grandmother used to make…  it’s simply lovely!

Anyways, zucchini proliferation continues, and I continue to look for interesting ways to use zucchini — do you have any ideas?

Oatmeal Summer Squash Muffins
Adapted from one of my favorite cookbooks, Simply in Season
makes 12 muffins

1 c. all-purpose flour*
1/2 c. whole wheat flour*
1 c. rolled oats
1 T. baking powder
1/2 t. salt
1 t. cinnamon
scant 1/2 t. mace

1 egg
1 c. milk
1/4 c. oil
1/4 c. honey
1 1/2 c. grated summer squash or zucchini

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Combine flours, oats, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and mace in a medium-large bowl.

In a medium bowl, combine egg, milk, oil, and honey. Mix well. Add wet ingredients to dry ingredients and stir until just moistened. Gently fold in squash.

Fill lined or well-greased muffin tins 2/3 full. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean.

*Note: feel free to use whatever flour combination you want — all whole wheat, all AP, whole wheat pastry, white whole wheat — just make sure it adds up to 1 1/2 cups in total!

Still Hungry?  Try one of these:

- Summer Squash and Roasted Tomato Timbales

- Simplest Summer Fruit Melange

- Chipotle Roasted Squash and Kale Quesadillas

Summer Squash and Roasted Tomato Timbales
makes 2 timbales

- 3 fist sized round green summer squash, or an equal amount of small zucchini or other summer squash
- olive oil
- between 4 and 12 roasted tomato halves, depending on size (see recipe below)
- 8 or so large basil leaves
- 3 – 4 T. farmer’s cheese or good quality ricotta

Preheat broiler. Remove the tops and very bottoms of summer squash and slice into thin rounds, about 1/8 inch thick or less (if using long instead of round squash, slice vertically into long strips). Lightly brush a rimmed baking sheet with olive oil. Place slices on baking sheet, and brush the tops with a small amount of olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil for about 5-6 minutes, until top is beginning to turn golden brown. Flip slices over, and broil and additional 4-5 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool somewhat. Turn oven to 400 degrees.

Lightly brush 2 -1 cup ramekins with a small amount of olive oil. Place one squash piece flat in the bottom of each ramekin. Using about half of the roasted squash, line the sides of the ramekins with overlapping slices. Place a quarter of the tomatoes in the bottom of each ramekin. Pat a quarter of the cheese into each ramekin on top of the tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top cheese with two basil leaves, pressing gently. Place one or two roasted squash slices on top of the basil. Repeat layering: tomatoes, cheese, salt & pepper, and basil. Top with remaining squash slices, and fold over any edges so you have a little roasted-squash-sealed package. Place ramekins on baking sheet, and heat in oven for about 8-10 minutes, until warmed throughout. Remove ramekins from oven, gently loosen edges with a small spatula or knife, turn timbales out onto a plate and remove ramekins (either by placing a plate on top of ramekin and flipping over, or by deftly flipping hot ramekins face down onto a plate). Enjoy!

Roasted Tomatoes
- Small tomatoes (1.5 inches is ideal, though you can use larger or smaller tomatoes)
- Salt & Pepper
- Thyme (fresh or dried)

Preheat oven to very low, about 225 degrees. Slice tomatoes in half vertically (or if using larger tomatoes, quarter them) and place cut side up on a rimmed baking pan. Sprinkle each tomato half with salt, pepper, and a bit of thyme. Roast for about 1.5 hour, or until tomatoes are very soft. Flip tomatoes so the cut side is down. Roast an additional hour and a half, or longer until tomatoes have reduced in volume by about half. Use tomatoes immediately, or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week (though mine never last that long!). If the tomatoes are on the smaller side, you will need to reduce roasting time to about 1 hour per side.

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Last weekend I saw the first tomatoes of the season at the Palo Alto farmer’s market! Greenhouse-raised? perhaps. Unusual variety? not so much. Super delicious after over six months without eating a fresh tomato? absolutely.

Not only did I find the first tomatoes of the season, but I found some lovely green summer squash, which I haven’t seen in even longer than six months! These two exciting farmer’s market finds, plus some farmers cheese I had at home and fresh basil from my trusty indoor basil plant, combined wonderfully to make a gastronomically and aesthetically pleasing vegetable dish that is happily at home on the center of the plate.

I had never heard of the word timbale before I came across Patricia Wells great cookbook, ‘Vegetable Harvest: Vegetables at the Center of the Plate’. Similar to ‘tagine’ and ‘casserole’, the word timbale refers to both the cookware, as well as the food cooked in the cookware. In the book she has a delicious-looking recipe for roasted eggplant and tomato timbales, which I based this dish upon.

Not too difficult, and not too fussy, these vegetable timbales have a clean, fresh flavor and an almost melt-in-your-mouth texture. I can imagine a late summer version of the dish using entirely raw ingredients and served slightly chilled (tomatoes, dill, cucumbers, and feta; chioggia beets, mint, ricotta, and strawberries; zucchini, sweet corn, cilantro, and farmer’s cheese… to name a few). Geez, I see the first tomatoes, and I’m already imagining August! Silly me — how foolish it would be to miss out on other equally mouthwatering late-spring/early summer combinations: asparagus, new potatoes, and dill; spring onion, green garlic, and spinach; leek, potato, and sage; snap peas, basil, and broccoli — all with cheese, or course — use your imagination and the possibilities are endless!

That being said, do you have any ideas for tasty or unusual combinations? I’d love to hear them!

Still Hungry?  Try one of these:

- Chipotle Roasted Squash and Kale Quesadillas

- Simplest Tomato Sauce with Roasted Onion, Shallots and Garlic

- 48 Hours in New York, 3 recipes: Nora’s Beets with Ricotta; Roasted five-spice Squash, Caramelized Onion, and Chevre Bites; The MB Hangover Cure and General Wellness Drink